I took an overnight ferry from Africa to Sicily! [#vanlife Tunisia]

I’d had a brilliant time in Tunisia, vanlifing by the beach, visiting troglodyte homes, exploring the salt flats in the south, and even running an ultramarathon in the Sahara.

But now it was time to head back to Europe.

• Join me in this episode as I embark on an 11-hour journey from Tunis to Sicily.
• What would the Tunisian boarding procedures be like?
• How much sleep would I get?

And would I even be able to get breakfast in the morning?

This is the story of my overnight ferry adventure from Africa to Italy!

After weeks of vanlifing around Tunisia — swimming off beaches, visiting troglodyte homes, exploring southern salt flats, and even running an ultramarathon in the Sahara — it was time to head back to Europe. Instead of flying, I took the overnight GNV ferry from Tunis to Palermo with my van.

What followed was an 11-hour crossing that was equal parts patience test, cultural experience, and logistical chaos… with a sunrise cappuccino reward at the end.

This is what the journey was actually like, based entirely on my experience.

Arriving at the Port in Tunis (La Goulette)

Finding the GNV office at the port wasn’t straightforward. A man offered help, which I accepted, only to realise afterwards he expected a tip for very basic directions.

Lesson: Be cautious about accepting “help” from strangers at the port.

From there, the process became a maze of:

• Being waved into different lanes
• Loops around unclear checkpoints
• Confusing instructions from multiple officials
• Passport checks
• Customs checks
• Being sent into the commercial goods lane by mistake
• Having documents signed in random booths

Hours of Waiting Before Boarding

I arrived at the port around 7:00 PM. The ferry was due to leave at midnight.

I didn’t board until after 2:30 AM.

That’s over 7 hours of queuing, inching forward, stopping, waiting, and repeating.

Key observations:

• Vehicles are loaded extremely slowly on the Tunis side
• Foot passengers boarded long before vehicles
• There appeared to be a system — but you had to be very patient to see it
• Police checked every single vehicle multiple times before boarding

Boarding the Ferry: Absolute Chaos in the Car Deck

When I finally drove onto the ship, it was unlike anything I’d seen boarding in Italy.

• Vehicles were packed incredibly tightly
• Staff were arguing with each other about where cars should go
• The air quality in the car deck was terrible due to exhaust fumes
• I had to jump out quickly before being boxed in completely

It felt like the ship was absolutely full, which explained the aggressive packing.

Why I Didn’t Book a Cabin

A cabin on this ferry cost 2–3 times more than the price of transporting me and the van.

Since I travel with bedding and camping gear, I decided to create my own sleeping setup on board instead.

I found many passengers already sleeping:

• On benches
• On sofas
• Even in stairwells

Which was surprising from a safety perspective.

Attempting to Sleep on Deck (and Failing)

I pitched my small tent in a soft-floored children’s play area near the engine housing. At first, it seemed ideal.

It wasn’t.

Problems through the night:

• Constant vibration from the engines
• Strong diesel fumes
• Cold wind tunnels through the deck
• Sloped flooring making me roll sideways
• Noise levels too high to sleep properly

I moved locations three times during the night, trying to find somewhere workable.

In total, I think I got maybe 30 minutes of real sleep.

At about 6:00 AM, I gave up and moved inside.

Morning on the Ferry: The Breakfast Saga

By morning, I was exhausted and desperate for coffee. I went to the onboard café and tried to order a “combo special” cappuccino deal.

This turned into a comedy sketch:

• Staff didn’t seem to know the combo existed
• I had to point to each item individually
• The deal wasn’t programmed into the till
• The manager had to come over
• It initially rang up €2 more expensive
• Eventually, I got it 20 cents cheaper

Victory.

Cappuccino in hand, watching the sea, knowing Sicily was close — morale restored.

Would I Take the Tunis to Palermo Ferry Again?

Yes — but with adjusted expectations.

This is not a smooth, slick European boarding process. It requires:

• Patience
• Self-sufficiency
• A plan for sleeping if you don’t book a cabin
• A sense of humour

But it’s also a memorable way to travel from Africa to Europe with your vehicle, and a fitting end to an incredible Tunisian adventure.

Practical Tips from My Experience

If you’re taking the GNV ferry from Tunis to Palermo with a vehicle:

• Arrive very early and expect long waits
• Don’t rely on clear instructions at the port
• Be cautious of strangers offering “help”
• Bring food and water onboard
• Consider whether a cabin is worth it for you
• Expect thorough police vehicle checks
• Get out of the car deck quickly once parked due to fumes
• Be prepared for minimal sleep without a cabin

This crossing wasn’t glamorous. It was chaotic, tiring, and slightly ridiculous at times.

And that’s exactly what made it such a good travel story.